Diet
Ferrets are carnivores (meat eaters). Their food needs to be dry and rich in ANIMAL, NOT PLANT, PROTEIN (more than 32%) and fat (more than 18%). Premium brands of ferret food are your best choice but quality brand kitten food or premium adult food with the right percentages of protein and fat are a good substitute. Ferrets eat frequent small meals so keep their bowls filled at all times. If you are changing your ferret’s food brand, mix the original food with the new food for a few days to avoid digestive problems. Ferrets also need water at all times. Ferrets are very active and dehydrate quickly so never let their water supply run out.

Ferrets love treats and exercise no self-control when offered their favorites. Most ferrets love raisins and/or other fruits, but they need to be given ONLY in moderation. Too much fiber can harm a ferret’s overall well-being and health because ferrets have no secum and do not secrete enzymes to break down fibers. DO NOT give your ferret vegetables, chocolate products, dairy products, sweets, or dog food. Raw meats are natural bacterial hosts. If given, they should be washed thoroughly first. Uneaten portions should be removed immediately.

Two much-loved ferret treats that are also good for their well-being are Ferretone (a supplement), given in moderation as a snack, and Laxa-Stat (a lubricant for hair ball prevention), given once every 3-4 days. Since ferrets do not vomit up hairballs like cats, it is possible for hairballs to cause intestinal blockage and even death.

Grooming
Your ferret does not need bathing for cleanliness. Ferrets are very clean animals, so the only reason you would have to bathe a ferret is to help control odor. How often you bathe the ferret is dependent on your sensitivity. A bath once every two weeks, or even once a month, is plenty to control odor. Do not bathe your ferret more than that. Excessive bathing can dry out their skin and strip the fur of its essential oils. Also, some ferrets love bath time and some ferrets hate it. Be sensitive to your ferret’s needs and try to make the event as simple as possible. Use warm water (remember, a ferret’s normal body temperature is 101°, so tepid water to you is like ice water to them) shallow enough for them to stand. Lower them slowly into the water, soak, wash (keeping shampoo away from eyes, ears, and nose), rinse with clean, warm water, and pre-dry him with a warm towel. Your ferret will enjoy finishing the drying process himself with a clean towel on the floor.

This is a good time for ear cleaning also. Using ferret ear cleanser and a cotton swab (Q-tip), put a few drops of cleaning solution into the ferret’s ears, moisten the cotton swab with the cleanser and gently massage the outer ear.

To help prevent hairballs, brush your ferret regularly and every day during the spring and fall when they are shedding. Nail clipping is also a necessity on a regular basis (every two weeks or so). Long nails can get caught and torn, causing injury to your pet. It is easiest to clip nails with a partner to hold your ferret by the scruff. Using human or cat nail clippers, carefully trim the nail CLEAR OF THE PINK BLOOD VEIN AREA. Cutting the vein will cause pain and bleeding. Use styptic powder and pressure if the vein is cut. Using Ferretone (a little on his belly) to keep your ferret distracted while you cut works well also. FERRETS ARE NEVER DECLAWED. Likewise, do not clip or file your ferrets teeth. Both would harm your ferret’s health and well-being.

Cages & Litter
Your ferret will need a quiet, cozy, den-like cage for eating, sleeping, and going to the bathroom. Your ferret will spend most of the day in his/her cage (ferrets typically sleep for about 16 hours a day), so a comfortable and clean living environment is essential. Your ferret should have playtime at least twice a day, for at least an hour each time. FERRETS SHOULD NOT BE ALLOWED TO ROAM FREE IN THE HOUSE UNSUPERVISED. Ferrets should always be secured in a cage when you are out of the house or asleep to prevent injury or escape due to their insatiable curiosity. Ferrets should not be caged outside, but indoors in a cool, shaded, dry area away from drafts and direct sunlight. Ferrets overheat very easily and can die within minutes from heatstroke. Your cage should be a sturdy, covered-wire cage, no smaller than 36"X18"X18". Do not use an aquarium because poor ventilation causes respiratory problems. Ferrets need plenty of floor space, so a built-in level with a ramp for access is recommended. Ferret paws are not designed for wire floors, so covering your levels and ramps with blankets or tightly woven carpet (so nails don’t get caught) is necessary. Also, provide bedding such as 100% cotton baby blankets, t-shirts, and ferret hammocks, tunnels, or sleep sacks (for great sleep sacks that help raise money for SAFE, visit The Fuzzy Sleep Center at http://fuzzysleepcenter. terrabox.com). Do not use cedar or pine chips due to the risk of breathing problems. Do not use newspaper. Do not use towels or shredded t-shirts because nails can get caught and torn off. Bedding should be changed regularly, about every three days, to prevent odors. It is recommended that you buy extra bedding to rotate through the cage so washing does not wear out bedding as quickly. Keep the cage clean using nontoxic disinfectant (ex. Simple Green) in hot water to kill germs. Make sure our litter box is in a corner of the cage, separate from the food bowl and water bottle. Your food bowl should be attached to the side of the cage or made of ceramic so it cannot be easily tipped over. For water, a 16 ounce water bottle works well. You may also want to consider a water bowl attached to the side of the cage (which will need to be changed once or twice a day). Most ferrets love to drink out of a bowl.

Your ferret will use a litter pan to do his business. You will need a litter pan with high sides and one side cut down for easy access, or a corner pan made for ferrets. They will back into a corner and raise their tails to do their business. Since ferrets are clean animals, they like their bathroom separate from their sleeping and eating areas. Therefore, they are potty trainable. You will need several litter pans placed in "favorite" corners of the play area. With patience and positive reinforcement, your ferret will continually return to the litter pan to do his business. Litter that is recycled paper or sawdust pellets is excellent, but dust-free clay kitty litter works well, too. DO NOT USE CLUMPING OR SCOOPABLE LITTER AS IT CAN CAUSE VARIOUS HEALTH PROBLEMS.

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